Cafés de Paris

My new favorite site for historic photographs is Paris En Images, an astounding treasure trove of material from the city of Paris’ archives. I am smitten with Paris and am plotting ways to live there for a couple of years once my sweetie and I retire. In the meantime, I live vicariously by reading about Americans who’ve lived there. A friend of mine loaned me David McCullough’s The Greater Journey: Americans in Paris, which I haven’t started yet but which looks more intriguing than the other books on my shelf at the moment.

The photos below struck my fancy; I think they represent a good cross section of cafe life in early 20th century Paris. And now, off to start my book. Au revoir!

© Gaston Paris / Roger-Viollet. Woman in a café. 1937-1938.

© Jacques Boyer / Roger-Violle. Buveur d’absinthe/Absinthe drinker. Paris, 1911.

© Maurice Branger / Roger-Viollet. Terrasse de café. Paris, vers 1925.

© Albert Harlingue / Roger-Viollet. Café. Paris, vers 1930.

Photographer Eugène Atget

Eugène Atget was a French photographer who worked from the late 1800s until his death in 1927. He took thousands of photographs of Paris during his work life, many of which he sold to the National Library, historical societies, and governmental entities. His photographs of architecture and buildings show a glimspe of old Paris that disappeared soon after. He lived in the Montparnasse area of Paris near other artists; Man Ray “discovered” Atget in the early 1920s and published some of his photos in La Révolution surréaliste journal. Ray’s assistant, photographer Berenice Abbott, bought many of Atget’s photographs after he died and published them, exposing them to a much wider audience.

I like the shadows and contrast in his photos, and the eerie blurriness from long exposures. His photos of staircases and doorknockers are great, and his photos of Paris always make me daydream of my favorite city.

Marchand de vin, 1910/1911

Photo courtesy Bibliothèque nationale de France

Corsets, 1912

Photo courtesy Bibliothèque nationale de France

Les Halles, 1910/1911

Photo courtesy Bibliothèque nationale de France

Bitumiers (asphalt layers), 1899/1900

Photo courtesy National Gallery of Art

References:

Atget’s Paris, edited by Hans Christian Admas; Essays by Andreas Krase. Published by Taschen, 2001.

Bibliothèque nationale de France Collections

Berenice Abbott from The Jewish Museum

Atget: The Art of Documentary Photography from the National Gallery of Art

Joyeux Anniversaire, Eiffel Tower!

Eiffel Tower and Fountain Coutan, 1889 Exposition. Photo from Library of Congress.

The Eiffel Tower officially opened on March 31, 1889 at the Exposition Universelle, which celebrated the 100 year anniversary of the French Revolution. I can’t imagine Paris without La Tour Eiffel, but it was originally built as a temporary structure for the Exposition. The Eiffel Tower website writes that the structure was only meant to remain standing for 20 years, but its use as a radio transmission tower, among other scientific experiments, saved it from demolition. Gustave Eiffel’s engineering feat was the tallest building in the world until the Chrysler Building was erected in 1930 in New York City.

Eiffel Tower rising into the fogImagine living under the shadow of the Eiffel Tower! That’s my daydream, even if it’s just for a year.

Tree in front of the Eiffel Tower

I took this while we were waiting for the Olympic Torch go by; you can see the police vans lined up along the street. We ended up being in the middle of a protest for Tibetan independence. For footage of the protest, including an elderly woman whacking a police officer who’d grabbed her Tibetan flag, see Todd’s YouTube video.

Detail of Eiffel Tower in SpringSection of the Eiffel Tower in spring.

Reflections on a Midnight in Paris

I watched Woody Allen’s latest film Midnight in Paris last week – what a fun treat! I’m smitten with Paris anyway, and Paris of the 1920s is where I’d travel back in time to, if I were offered the chance. I’m glad Woody Allen’s got his groove back with this one. But this post isn’t a review, per se. For that, have a look at Roger Ebert’s review.

One of the things I enjoyed about this film are the references to the literary and artistic figures of 1920s Paris: Salvador Dalí, Luis Buñuel, Ernest Hemingway, Picasso, Modigliani, Man Ray, Josephine Baker, among many others. I have come to appreciate the art and movies of the Surrealists. The “Lost Generation” of those people who came of age during WWI was edgy and bittersweet, but I find it fascinating. I daydream about holding a salon in my living room with my literary friends, and imagine how amazing it must have been to be in the same room as Gertrude Stein, Ernest Hemingway, Man Ray, Sylvia Beach, and Salvador Dalí.

Alice B. Toklas and Gertrude Stein. Photo courtesy National Portrait Gallery.

Part of what draws me to the twenties is the freedom women had, at least compared to the Edwardian and pre-war era. Gertrude Stein and Alice B. Toklas lived an unconventional life in Paris together and had an amazing circle of friends. Coco Chanel revolutionized women’s fashion by designing comfortable yet elegant clothes out of jersey, to fit the more active and less restricted lifestyles of women in the 1920s. Women could smoke (not that it was such a good idea), drink, dance, and have sex outside of marriage more easily than before.

Photograph of Luis Buñuel by Man Ray, 1929. Photo Universidade de Coruña.

One of my favorite filmmakers, Luis Buñuel, was a Spanish surrealist whose first few films are disturbing, but really creative. Un Chien Andalou was written by Buñuel and Salvador Dalí, another Surrealist. It features insects, mutilation, dead animals – all very disjointed and dream-like.

Ernest Hemingway. Image courtesy Stanford University Library.

The actor portraying the Ernest Hemingway character in the movie was great. His stiff body posture and short sentences are similar to his writing. I like his precise writing style but I hate his misogyny and machismo. His posthumously published memoir of living in Paris in the twenties, A Movable Feast, is an enjoyable read expect for some mean-spirited jabs at his friends.

Salvador Dali and Man Ray. Image courtesy University of Nebraska.


After watching Midnight in Paris, I added these titles to my reading list:

The Great Gatsby
Save Me The Waltz
The Autobiography of Alice B. Toklas
The Secret Life of Salvador Dalí
That Summer in Paris by Morley Callaghan
Sylvia Beach and the Lost Generation: A History of Literary Paris in the Twenties and Thirties
T.S. Eliot – My sweetie gave me a copy of Old Possum’s Book of Cats, which I really like but when I had to read some of his other writing in college, I didn’t like it. Maybe I should give him another chance.

Now, if I could just get a Paris themed book club going among my friends…or a salon! Hmm…maybe a virtual salon would be fun?!

Photographer Robert Doisneau

Robert Doisneau is one of my favorite photographers, along with Eugène Atget, Ansel Adams, Henri Cartier-Bresson, and Dorothea Lange. I prefer black and white photography, and really appreciate photographers who can capture the history and feeling of a place. Mr. Doisneau’s street photography highlights the simple pleasures in life- a kiss, a dance, a smile.

My sweetie gave me a copy of the book Doisneau Paris, by Brigitte Ollier for Christmas. What a fabulous surprise it was! It’s a lovely coffee table book with nearly 600 photographs by Doisneau. It makes me want to take out the old Pentax-K1000 and shoot some black and white photos. Of course, it also makes me want to go to Paris.

mélomanes

Les bouchers mélomanes, La Villette, 1953

Jacqueline Delubac au balcon, Paris, 1951

Concierge aux lunettes, 1945

I downloaded these images from the Atelier Robert Doisneau website, which has an outstanding portfolio of his lesser known works. EuropeUpClose has an interesting post about Mr. Doisneau that includes some biographical information.

A Favorite Designer: Coco Chanel

“A girl should be two things: classy and fabulous.” – Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel

Coco Chanel is one of my fashion icons. I love the elegant yet livable clothing she designed, including the little black dress and women’s suits. My strands of fake pearls worn all at once with a black knit sweater and skirt are my homage to her style. I don’t own a Chanel suit but fantasize about finding one in a a Paris flea market. In the meantime, an occasional spray of Chanel No. 5 will have to do.

I really like this portrait of Mademoiselle Chanel; she’s so elegant. I always think of her clothing as black and cream, but as some of the photos below illustrate, she did use prints and color. The last photograph is a photograph inside her apartment in the Ritz Hotel in Paris. My sweetie and I couldn’t even get in the door without a white-gloved “non” from the security person.

Covo Chanel. Image from MINT Museum.

Wool knit dress circa 1924. Image from Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Evening dress circa 1930. Image from Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Evening dress, circa 1939. Image from Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Cocktail suit, circa 1964. Image from Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Appartement de Coco Chanel au Ritz : livre et lunettes. Image by François Kollar. Image courtesy of http://www.culture.gouv.fr/